Cult status: Damson Madder is ripe for the times

Damson, according to Google, it’s a small, purple-ish, plum-like fruit with an acquired taste. Madder, a plant known as Rubia Tinctorum (to nerds) is an inconspicuous plant without flowers, but with special roots containing alizarin — a gorgeous, bright red pigment that’s been used to dye fabrics for centuries. Separately, they’re just two elements of nature, but together, Damson Madder has become a cult-followed clothing brand, pairing sustainable ethos with fun, and femininity with practical design. And it’s likely being worn on a trendy high street near you at this very moment. 

In fact, it’s this time of year when the brand really shines. Based in Camden Town, the design team knows how chilly, grey and downright depressing it can be to inhabit London in winter. First, they fought off seasonal drabness with the brand’s Tilly Gilet, a cute layering piece designed to brighten any wardrobe, released as part of the AW23 collection. Then this year, they released their reversible, cinched-waist, plaid Liu raincoat to the same effect. Super chic and waterproof. 

Since the brand’s launch in 2020, just two days before the world went into lockdown, Damson Madder has been one for the girls. It debuted with the cute waffle-knit sweats we wore while working from home. Then, as we started to show our faces more, frilly, checkered tops came into view on Zooms across the UK (occasionally accompanied by a matching bonnet on whoever was feeling a little extra that day). But now, it’s transcended the quirky stereotype that can mistakenly be attributed to more feminine brands, and is quickly cementing itself as a sleek, upscale yet accessible womenswear label with flair. 

In the past half decade, Damson Madder has grown exponentially. It has outgrown its pleated British britches, and last year began stocking in Parisian department stores and popping up in New York. It’s grown a dedicated cult following off numerous ‘viral’ styles (again, remember Tilly? Or maybe Rafe?) and even expanded into homeware this fall. Damson Madder has become not just a fashion brand, but a world. And that’s all thanks to the one and only Emma Hill.

Hill launched the brand after noticing a knitted-bonnet-with-tie-details-shaped hole in the fashion market while working as a buyer. But jokes aside, the Londoner felt there was a clear gap for a label driven by genuinely innovative design — playful, bold and texturally rich — paired with high-quality and responsible production. Hill is a firm believer that consumers should be able to buy distinctive pieces that last, can be reworn endlessly and even thrift well, without having to rely solely on designer price points. And as a result, in 2019, she laid down the roots for Damson Madder, developing a brand that was sustainable and eco-friendly while infused with joie de vivre. Poles apart from the usual natural fibers, solid colours and inoffensive basics, Hill’s vision was something, quite simply, a little more fabulous.

Firstly, I’d really like to know… is plum your favourite colour? 

Yes! I love all shades of purple and red. Burgundy is probably one of my favourite colours, which I guess is a mix of the two. [I’m just] noticing my nails and phone case are currently matching burgundy.

We had a few pieces in the first collection that were natural dyes within those colours, and I thought they sounded so beautiful, so we called [the brand] Damson and Madder. But we dropped the ‘and’.

Social media is often the catalyst for building a cult brand these days. Do you think people engage with Damson Madder for the same reasons you started it (sustainability and practicality), or is it purely about the aesthetic? 

The first time, we had a viral raincoat [the Lou], which was funny because we didn’t design it with virality in mind at all. We’d never made a raincoat before, but it rains constantly in the UK and I felt like there was nothing out there that was actually practical and exciting. Raincoats are handy, so if you can buy one with a beautiful shape, pattern and gorgeous print, that’s amazing.

I think, as with anything, it’s all about balance. We’ve been lucky enough to build an incredible following on social media over the last few years, but I don’t think that following has been purely driven by surface-level aesthetics at all. Of course, we post creative content that’s all about the product, but the content that’s driven that virality has always been centred around relatability and community. That’s what has driven loyalty and brand love for us. 

‘Viral’ pieces like the Tilly gilet and Rafe jeans — who are you naming them after? 

We used to name our styles after team members, family members, friends and significant others. For example, my niece is Tilly and my son is Rafe. As we grew, we ran out of family members and now we’re very much culture-based. So if there’s something on TV that we’re all watching, we might name the product after the characters. When White Lotus was on, there were definitely a few products with those names.

I know you wear a lot of Damson Madder now, but what did you love wearing when you were Tilly’s age?

I’m a millennial, so I’m sure it’ll be no surprise that I grew up in the Topshop Oxford Circus era. That store was such a mecca for me and my friends, and really pioneering in terms of design on the high street at the time. I also loved French Connection. The iconic FCUK branding was such a pinnacle of noughties marketing. Also, streetwear was huge for me growing up — adidas, the iconic Kappa popper. I still love to mix a Damson blouse and maybe an adidas short. That’s what I was wearing to Glasto last year. And then, of course, vintage, which remains a huge inspiration for Damson Madder’s designs today. Floral blouses, biker jackets, Levi jeans.

Why do you think sustainable brands lack a sense of style? Or is that a false stereotype?

I think the ‘sustainable’ landscape is such a complicated conversation that’s often challenging to navigate, both as a brand aiming to deliver quality products with responsibility as a key focus, but also as a consumer. We see our customer as someone who’s looking to spend their money consciously, and consume as responsibly as possible, but is also excited by unique design and playful pieces. 

I certainly don’t think that all sustainable brands lack a sense of style but I think there’s a bit of a stereotype that comes to mind around the word ‘sustainable’. You tend to think of neutral tones, loose silhouettes, earthy branding. The balance isn’t easy, especially when it comes to delivering an accessible price point. But we’re continuing to challenge ourselves and deliver improvements every season. Next year, we’re submitting our first impact report, which is something we’ve been working on for two years now. It’s going to be very, very clear what our impact is as a brand and how we can improve that year on year — something for us to measure ourselves against. 

The brand has grown a considerable amount over the last year or two. What’s next in 2026? 

We have exciting plans to continue our global expansion into the US — a pop-up in LA, as well as activations in some exciting new US cities. We get offers for cool collaborations but they’ve never felt quite natural or right yet. It’s really important to work with the right people.

As we grow, we also want to maintain the core values and ethos that made our customers connect with the brand in the first place. So we also have a huge focus on community initiatives and events, a customer loyalty programme, and even more exciting and creative storytelling across our socials and seasonal campaigns. 

Damson Madder is your baby, or as you say, your third child. What does it mean to be a woman in charge of a fast-growing and successful fashion house that you founded? And why do you think that you (and women) make uniquely great CEOs? 

I would say it’s surreal, for sure. We had ten people two years ago, and now we’re a team of forty-five. Guiding a talented team through constant change, keeping everyone aligned, motivated and focused on the bigger vision, whilst also staying focused on having fun, is a big thing for me. 

I think women make great CEOs because they often have the emotional intelligence and empathy to understand the needs of their team. Perhaps they’re more naturally nurturing. And I really believe in any business, your team is your biggest asset. Bringing them along for the ride and ensuring they feel valued and respected is so important. Our team is ninety percent female and I’ve been passionate about building a culture that’s empowering and supportive — not about competition or short-term wins.