Blumarine appoints David Koma as their new creative director

Known for its Y2K twist on timeless elegance, Blumarine has appointed David Koma as their new creative director, whose debut collection for the brand will be their Pre-Fall 2025. The move coincides with the fifteenth anniversary of the Georgian-born designer’s own eponymous label, which (while also offering lowkey ready-to-wear pieces) is acclaimed for its seductive, silhouette-hugging red-carpet looks. Last year alone, the brand was worn by Kendall Jenner, Dua Lipa and members of Blackpink to name a few of its girl-of-the-moment clientele — fitting considering the ideal ‘Koma Girl’ is, according to the brand’s mission statement, a “21st century femme fatale”. 

It’s a pretty swift turnaround for the brand whose previous creative director Walter Chiapponi left Blumarine in March, after serving for only one season. Though Chiapponi’s Pre-Fall 2024 collection certainly embodies Blumarine’s intrinsic femininity (think romantic with a softly indie-sleaze twist), his work was criticised for a lack of cohesion, as well as harbouring a slightly more mature feel than the brand became known for in its Nicola Brognano era. After all, it was Brognano’s “dirty, bitchy, sexier” Blumarine takeover (read belly chains and butterfly embellishments) that put the ‘80s-founded brand on the Y2K-loving TikTok generation’s radar.

Despite Brognano’s legacy at the brand, if feminine is what Blumarine wants, they’re certainly in good hands with Koma. After all, his womenswear shows have been must-see components of London Fashion Week since Koma completed his Central Saint Martins master’s degree in 2009. “David Koma’s aesthetic captured me from the beginning,” said Marco Marchi, the director of Blumarine’s holding company, Exelite, in a statement. “I am sure that David will be able to interpret Blumarine’s codes to perfection, thanks to his vision and stylistic sensitivity, characterised by an overwhelming femininity.” Hopefully, Koma’s Blumarine era will be worthy competition for that of Brognano.