What we’ve seen at PFW so far

From Rick Owens' new found optimism to Givenchy and more...

After a bit of a bumpy start for some designers, Paris Fashion Week is in full swing. Known globally as the fashion capital of the world, this week Paris has welcomed the likes of fashion power houses such as Issey Miyake, Givenchy and Rick Owens to the stage, but will also host an array of notable newcomers with quickly rising star Vautrait and recent CSM graduate Kiko Kostadinov to showcase their designs.  Let’s take a look at some of the best looks we’ve seen up until now…

Louis Vuitton Femme

Louis Vuitton have gone bold this season with their retro inspired collection, accompanied by pinstriped fabrics and a riot of colours. We saw an ode to 70s silhouettes with striped power suits and flowing silk forms. Despite the added audience of environmental activists, LV delighted us with a fresh take on vintage high fashion, paying testament to their heritage and longevity of the brand.

Vivienne Westwood

Nine months on from the passing of British legend, Vivienne Westwood, her partner, Andreas Kronthaler has kept her trailblazing vision alive. For the Spring/Summer 2024 collection, Kronthaler took inspiration from the archived designs of Westwood’s vast collection.  As models took the to the runway in Westwood staples such as the Inferno Jacket, plaid fabrics, and cinched silhouettes, it’s clear to see Kronthaler’s dedication to keeping the brand alive, but it was also a testament the everlasting professional and personal partnership between them. The showcase of designs was received with critical acclaim from the audience who showered the designer and his team with applause.

Image Credit: Patricia Buren

COMME des GARÇONS

COMME des GARÇONS will always push fashion to its limits with their show-stopping, over-the-top looks, and their appearance at PFW this week was no exception. As the models took to the stage in bright coloured cartoonish headgear, reminiscent of founder Rei Kawakubo’s signature bobbed hairstyle, they wore the extravagant designs which incorporated floral and geometric patterned fabrics that took on free and bulbous forms,while other designs were embellished exaggerated bows and ribbons.

 

Image Credit: Edward Wendt

Rick Owens

Amongst the pink and orange mist that cast over the marble staircase of Palais de Tokyo, Rick Owens presented us with his usual outlandish, sculptural designs. However this season, he’s shaken up the dark and moody looks we’re used to seeing having been replaced with striking reds, oranges, and pinks – though still interspersed with those darker designs, of course, it’s still Rick Owens. Almost reminiscent of fictional creatures, the looks veiled the models’ faces with layers of mesh and exaggerated shoulder labels. And naturally, the models adorned black eye contacts for further extraterrestrial chic.

Image Credit: Patricia Buren

Faith Connexion

The French brand was reacquired back in 2020, with a collective of designers all inputting their individual ideas. This week we saw the juxtaposing elements of sportswear, with tailored tweed jackets and sheer flowing fabrics all within effortlessly elegant looks, Faith Connexion delighted us with an ensemble of looks in their recent show.

Marrying the tweed blazers found in every fashion savvy Parisian’s wardrobe with graceful cargo trousers, paired alongside looks showcasing free-flowing sheer dresses in bright pastel colours. The collection is emblematic of the fashion house’ individuality.

Photo Credit: Edward Wendt

Givenchy

French powerhouse Givenchy graced us with their usual splendour this week, featuring the frame-hugging draped silky silhouettes of their cocktail dresses paired with oversized and effortlessly cool blazers. The collection took a more feminine approach that hasn’t been seen in awhile, as the draped forms brought a euphoric nature to their design, contrasting the heavily tailored and cinched garments we’ve seen in past collections. The dark neutrals had also been replaced with florals and pastels, further adding to that feminine edge.

Dawei

This week also saw Dawei showcasing soft pinks and forest greens, as they presented us with delicately pleated looks with a romantic and whimsical edge to them. Priding themselves on bringing vintage silhouettes back into fashion with a contemporary and luxurious touch, it’s clear to see Dawei’s SS24 collection is still championing that ethos with fresh and new designs.

Photo Credit: Louis Daniel
WriterLucas Ind
PFW ContributersPatricia Buren, Edward Wendt, Kevin Pineda, Louis Daniel