GOOMHEO’s SS25 collection is finding the beauty in urban chaos

It’s hard not to take notice of GOOMHEO’s SS25 campaign — looking like a snapshot of British subcultures that might end up in some esoteric exhibition at the Photographers’ Gallery, it’s a set of images that are just as evocative as the clothes themselves. It also looks a bit like a deleted scene from This is England? Either way, it’s great. Shot by Thue Nørgaard against a backdrop of fly-tipped furniture and urban parkland, it’s debuting GOOMHEO’s latest collection – aptly named “Twist” – which is a kind of love letter to London’s beautiful chaos.

The South Korean, London-based designer has been quietly reshaping the landscape of contemporary menswear since her Fashion East days, bringing a distinctly Seoul-meets-Hackney energy to everything she touches. “London’s diverse street culture has been huge for me,” she says, “but Seoul’s boldness and maximalism pushes me to experiment.” The result? A collection that transforms the ordinary into the extraordinary — think plissé jean jackets that give denim an unexpected elegance, and exposed zippers that let wearers hack their own style.

These aren’t just clothes; they’re a reflection of city living itself — adaptable, unexpected, and always ready for whatever the streets throw at you. As the designer puts it, “It’s about finding beauty in those often-overlooked elements.” Even if those elements happen to be an abandoned sofa in a park.

The adaptability in your designs feels very London-influenced. How does city living shape your creative process? 

Living between London and Seoul for the last decade has truly shaped my approach to design. London, with its diverse, constantly evolving street culture and eclectic style, has been a huge influence in terms of adaptability and versatility. The city embraces individuality and innovation, which is something I try to reflect in my designs. Whether it’s the juxtaposition of high fashion with streetwear elements, or the mix of classic tailoring with bold, experimental cuts, London has taught me how to remain fluid and open to change in terms of design.

What inspired the decision to shoot your lookbook in urban parks, complete with fly-tipped furniture? 

Urban parks are like these unexpected pockets of serenity within the chaos of the city, and fly-tipped furniture represents the contrast between decay and beauty. The lookbook was about embracing the unconventional and celebrating how these often-overlooked elements can have their own beauty when juxtaposed with high fashion. It also touches on ideas of sustainability, reclaiming discarded things, and reinterpreting them in a new context. The setting echoed the way our designs sometimes take ordinary or overlooked pieces of fashion and elevate them to something unique and impactful.

You’re revisiting elements from your Fashion East days. What drew you back to those early design signatures? 

My Fashion East days were about experimentation and pushing boundaries. Revisiting those signatures – exaggerated silhouettes and bold graphic prints – is a return to a sense of freedom in design. A lot has changed so much since then personally and workwise, but some things about the essence of what I do haven’t changed. I wanted to bring back those early design elements with a more refined, mature lens — blending the playfulness of my younger self with the depth of experience I’ve gained over the years.

The exposed zippers give wearers control over styling. Was this element of customisation always part of your vision? 

Customisation has always been central to the brand’s ethos. From the beginning, I wanted to create pieces that weren’t just “one size fits all”, but that gave wearers the freedom to personalise their style. The exposed zippers are a subtle yet powerful way for someone to take control of the fit and look of their garment. It allows them to transform a piece to suit their own sense of style or the occasion. Whether that’s adjusting a silhouette or adding functional elements like extra pockets or ventilation.

The plissé jean jackets stand out as centerpieces. What inspired you to reimagine this classic? 

Reimagining the jean jacket came from a desire to rework a classic piece with a new, modern perspective. The plissé technique brings texture and movement to something that’s traditionally quite rigid and utilitarian. I wanted to explore the idea of fluidity in an otherwise structured garment, making it feel more dynamic and contemporary. The juxtaposition of something casual like denim with the elegance of pleats also speaks to the brand’s broader philosophy of blending opposites and pushing boundaries.

You’re blending athletic wear with embellishments. How do you approach this mix of practical and decorative? 

Athletic wear and sportswear have been huge influences, but I’ve always felt there’s room to elevate these garments beyond their functional roots. Athletic wear is about comfort and freedom of movement, but I see no reason why it can’t also be luxurious and decorative. Whether it’s with intricate embroidery, embellishments, or unexpected fabric choices, I try to blend function with artistry. It’s about creating something that performs well but also makes a visual impact. Fashion, after all, should be both practical and beautiful.

Your trompe-l’oeil prints are quite conceptual. How do you balance artistic expression with wearability? 

For me, the key is always to make sure the artistic elements serve the design, rather than overpowering it. The trompe-l’oeil prints are a way of playing with perception and visual illusion, but I want them to remain wearable — something that feels fresh but also accessible. It’s about striking a balance where the concept can be appreciated as art, but the garment can still fit into someone’s everyday wardrobe. I always try to ensure there’s a grounding in practicality, even when pushing creative boundaries.

The violet hand motif is striking. What’s the significance behind this design element? 

The violet hand motif symbolizes connection and the power of gesture. Hands are incredibly expressive — they communicate more than words at times. The violet colour adds a layer of mystery and introspection, representing the quiet, powerful moments we experience in life. It’s a motif that ties into themes of personal expression and identity, and I wanted to bring that forward in a way that felt both artistic and symbolic.

How does working between London and South Korea influence your perspective on color and form? 

London’s greys and muted tones contrast sharply with the vibrant, bold palettes I encounter in Seoul. The two cities push me to see color and form from different angles. London’s minimalist approach often inspires a more restrained, subtle use of color, while Seoul’s boldness and appreciation for pop culture and maximalism encourages me to experiment with contrasts, layering, and unexpected combinations. Balancing these two perspectives is exciting because it helps me keep the collection dynamic and diverse, merging the best of both worlds.

Fashion’s having this sustainability moment. Has that affected how you approach design and production? 

Sustainability is a key factor in my design process now more than ever. It’s something I’ve always tried to integrate into the brand, even in small ways, but the pressure to be more mindful is growing. We’re working with more sustainable fabrics and ethical production processes, and I’m also focusing on creating pieces that are built to last, rather than follow fleeting trends. It’s about creating timeless designs that can be worn season after season. As a brand, we are committed to reducing waste and ensuring that our impact on the environment is as minimal as possible.

The bloomer-skirt hybrids push boundaries while remaining wearable. How do you find that sweet spot? 

It’s all about experimentation, and finding that balance comes with time. I’ve always enjoyed pushing the boundaries of traditional shapes, but I also want the wearer to feel comfortable and confident. With the bloomer-skirt hybrids, I was inspired by the idea of fluidity and ease, blending structure with movement. It’s about creating something that challenges convention but still fits seamlessly into everyday life. There’s a fine line between being avant-garde and being wearable, and the trick is to create something that surprises people while still feeling like they could incorporate it into their wardrobe.

With fast fashion constantly copying luxury designs, how do you protect your creative identity?

For me, protecting creative identity comes down to staying true to my vision and being authentic in the design process. While trends can be copied, the depth of the creative thought, the cultural references, and the personal touch in the design can’t be replicated in the same way. GOOMHEO is about more than just fashion — it’s about telling stories, exploring themes, and creating something that feels deeply connected to the world around us. As long as we stay focused on our unique aesthetic and purpose, it’s hard to be easily replicated. Ultimately, it’s about the emotional connection we build with our customers and the sense of individuality that comes through in every piece.