In the chiffon trenches: HUNGER goes backstage at Paris Fashion Week
Who? Études
Where? The rooftops of Paris
The Vibe? It’s all a bit different for this SS24 of Études, with a hint of formality in the garments showing the brand is skating down a new road. Against a Parisian rooftop, the collection’s inspiration is taken from gabber culture – a branch of electronic dance music and a subgenre of hardcore techno. Soft silhouettes are mixed with edgier tailoring techniques, as workwear meets Étude’s signature streetwear aesthetic. The ‘E’ motif is plastered across many of the pieces, which highlights the silverware with its duck egg blue and charcoal grey hue backdrop. Pops of orange step out, jumping between black and navy with technical detailing showing each piece has been upgraded even from the most minute of details. This isn’t to say the brand DNA has been lost, as deconstructed bombers and oversize jackets showcase nothing underneath unless it is a baby graphic tee with low-sitting jeans. Standouts include the workwear-style harnesses and full silk tracksuits, with swirling metal jewellery climbing around the ear and sitting on tailored suit brooches.
Who? Kidill
Where? Under the Louvre
The Vibe? Japanese brand Kidill embraced the punk ethos to a tee, debuting their Spring/ Summer 2024 collection by the Creative Director Hiroaki Suiyasu to prove that the subculture is a way of life. It was in your face, loud and proud, as the chaotic show saw the models storm the runway draped in garments with their own political messaging. From US anarchists to London’s underground punk boys, the symbols adorned every patch of material, pulling from historic groups worldwide. There was chest armour, abstract trousers, and zips galore, with the star of the show being the slew of slightly eerie animal headgear that took on the silhouette of a balaclava with floppy bunny ears, button alien eyes, and even a bondage-style elephant. Notions of gender were rewritten with the ruffled dresses and kilts, as spiderweb cardigans and harnesses sat over the top, complete with chokers and knee-length bomber jackets. With a mixture of gingham and florals against metal-head style makeup and greasy bangs, Kidill dissected dwindling conformity within fashion.
Who? Louis Gabriel Nouchi
Where? Palais de Tokyo
The Vibe? We’ve had all the drama Louis Gabriel Nouchi can give us – Dangerous Liaisons for Spring 2023, American Psycho for Fall 2023– and now, an ode to Christopher Isherwood’s 1964 novel A Single Man. With a collection of the same name, LGN travels the realms of love, loss, and grief with his garments, annotating the original text with a whole new interpretative outcome. It was traditional menswear lined with emotion, appearing as brown leather coats with a white-collared shirt and tie peeking through, exaggerated shoulders with low-slung pants and bodysuits, and two metallic crinkled garments to end – completely frozen in place. Brown transitioned into a bright duckling-coloured yellow, heading toward a cream and grey palette with a mainstay of steady monochrome black and white. Though it presented as eveningwear, it remained relaxed with attention to styling, as athleisure silhouettes paired with button-downs and billowing trenches.
Who? Feng Chen Wang
Where? Lycée Collége Montaigne public school courtyard
The Vibe? London-based designer Feng Chen Wang educates the industry with her own take on her culture every time the collections step out at PFW, and this was no different. But with every step into a new collection comes a new theme, and 2024 was a spritzy ode to summer vibes. Falling leaves lay across two-piece sets, appearing as though they were pressed into denim vests and oversized tees. Hats were an essential part of the show, with the classic Grandma-esque beach number being pulled down over the face so models peeked through a gaping hole that was embellished with rainbow-coloured beads. Even the feathers got the FCW treatment, this time acting as a shade blocker in thin mesh over the eyes. Beaded accessories reigned supreme, as schoolboy-style uniforms were paired with oversized jeans, denim co-ords and dramatically ruffled footwear. At the end of all the pastel patterned summery glory came a surprise of neon coloured looks in nuclear green, also in partnership with Nike. Air Force 1s grew tulle flowers as ruffled dresses reimagined and upcycled athleisure wear, with a standout flowing number patching together Nike materials from a classic sports bra shape and neckline.
