From Karoline Vitto to Collina Strada, here are SS24’s most size-inclusive brands

Vogue Business has revealed its size inclusivity report for SS24, giving us an insight into the progression (or still lack thereof) of plus-size representation on the runway.

As with last season, Vogue Business analysed every runway show and presentation reviewed by Vogue Runway from the official New York, London, Milan and Paris schedules to calculate the proportion of total looks that are straight-size, mid-size and plus-size.

In previous editions, it was smaller, newer brands that were leading the way for inclusivity; however, there was some progress amongst fashion’s elite for SS24, with Balenciaga, Ferragamo and Mugler entering the rankings for the first time. Still, the labels at the top of the rankings remain smaller and independently owned.

Topping the table were Karoline Vitto and Chopova Lowena, who secured joint first with 100% size diversity – meaning all the models were either mid-size (US 6-12) or plus-size (US 14+). 17 mid-sized models and 13 plus-sized models walked at Vitto’s show, the highest plus-size representation of any show. Chopova Lowena skewed more heavily to mid-size, with 40 mid-size and two plus-size models. Meanwhile, New York’s Bach Mai was second, and London-based designers Palmer Harding, Di Petsa and Patrick McDowell ranked third, fourth and fifth, respectively.

However, there still remains very little representation of plus sizes on the runway. Of 9,584 looks across 230 shows and presentations in New York, London, Milan and Paris, 0.9% were plus-size, and 3.9% were mid-size. This means 95.2% of looks presented were in a straight size (US 0-4). This is a slight improvement on AW23, where 95.6% of looks were straight-size, 3.8% were mid-size, and 0.6% were plus-size.

Plus-size model James Corbin, who appeared in HUNGER Issue 29: Going Underground, told Vogue he wasn’t approached to walk any shows in London this season — where both menswear and womenswear collections were presented. The only show he was booked for in Paris, Christian Cowan’s, was off-schedule (and therefore not included in Vogue’s data). The New York-based designer — who typically shows during New York Fashion Week — brought an inclusive cast to the Parisian stage, including Corbin and mid-size model Monet Lauren.

London remained the most size-inclusive city this season, with 1.6% plus-size looks, 9.6% mid-size and 88.8% straight-size. This is a slight increase on AW23, where 1.5% of looks were plus-size, 5.8% were mid-size, and 92.7% were straight-size. London is now the first of the big four to have total size diversity above 10%. Chopova Lowena, which did not show last season, ranked first in the UK capital with 95.2% mid-size looks and 4.8% plus-size.

Overall, it was young women designers such as Elena Velez, Collina Strada, Di Petsa, Yuhan Wang, Chopova Lowena, and Karoline Vitto continued to prioritise size inclusivity in SS24.