Behind the sheer curtain of Ludovic de Saint Sernin’s SS24 show was a celebration of queer summertime lust

For his first collection since departing Ann Demeulemeester after just one season, the designer strips it all back (again).

Ludovic de Saint Sernin’s SS24 showcase returned to his quintessential ethos as he presented ‘Lust’ on a hot Sunday to mark the end of Paris Men’s Fashion Week. The stakes were somewhat higher for LdSS since his exit from Ann Demeulemeester after just one season, where despite a stunning collection featuring feather bralettes, (rumoured) managerial differences were at play. Stepping out for the first time after this, the designer is definitely showing the brand what they are missing.

But this collection took the higher road and basked in a plethora of metal mesh halter necks and leather briefs. It toned down the more garish items in favour of a lustful take on a “celebration of queer desire”, according to the press release. The themes of summer romance and gender fluidity were pinned amidst thinly veiled knits and chest-baring linen shirts. It was a cool breeze of fresh Ludovic de Saint Sernin air and stripped back the industry politics to expose why the designer was helmed great at what he does in the first place.

Models took to the runway carrying Patti Smith literature in mini sparkly purses, with draping floor-length halter necks and tailored two-pieces that almost floated when moving. They clasped each other’s hands in a display of youthful love and revelled in the subtleties of their garments rather than displaying dominance. 

There was still the signature Y2K de Saint Sernin style, with baguette style minis and uber-short skirts paired with halter necks and glitzy Paris Hilton-style shimmery materials – thanks to a partnership with Swarovski. But it all felt more unified, in the sense that the designer had stripped back and focused on what he loves, which is evidently, the premise of love itself. The clothes continued to stitch sexiness into the seams, with the likes of lace-up zippers exposing what’s underneath and half-done corsets. A skin-coloured mesh dress called on the barely-there theme, with a palette that led from his other collections of nudes, earth tones, and black.

It was all a rather erotic affair, with LdSS slowing down the speed of his career trajectory to bathe in the golden tones of his statement jewellery and standout bags. The accessories were made in conjunction with the New York-based artist Villarreal Vagujhelyi, appealing to an unapologetic base of queer design and gender-fluid artistry.

De Saint Sernin is back to doing what he does best, which is noticing the beautiful things in beautiful places, and draping them on beautiful people. Since debuting off the calendar six years ago, the brand is now an industry favourite, and front rowers Rick Owens, Olivier Rousteing, and Carine Roitfeld can vouch for that. It seems the genderless mega-brand is back in full force.

WriterElla Chadwick
PhotographerEdward Wendt & Patricia Castellanos